Process and apparatus for making natural-edge beaver hats



J. L. KAUFMAN. I PROCESS AND APPARATUS'FOR MAVKING NATURAL EDGE BEAVER HATS.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 31, 1921 1,389,364. PatentedAug. 30, 1921.

3 $HEET$SHEET 1. E 1.

J. L. KAUFMAN.

PROCESS AND APPARATUS FOR MAK|NG-NATURAL EDGE BEAVER HATS.

APPLICATION FILED MAY 31, 1921.

1 ,389 ,364. Patented Aug. 30, 1921.

r 3 SHEETS-SHEET 2- J. L. KAUFMAN. PROCESS AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING NATURAL EDGE BEAVER HATS. APPLICATION FILED MAY 31, 1921.

1,389,364. Patented Aug. 30, 1921.

3 SHEETS-SHEET 3- Qvwemtoz Jam flair/am view of the heating chamber or 4 UNITED STATES PATENTo Fnc-e.

I JOHN L. KAUFMAN, OF BROOKLYN, NEW YORK.

PROCESS To all whom it may concern e it known that I, JOHN I citizen of theUnited States, and resident of 1750 63rd St, Brooklyn, in the county'of Kings and State" ofNew York, have in vented certain newand useful Improvements in the Processes and Apparatus for Making Natural-Edge Beaver Hats, of which the following is a specification. v One of the main objects of this invention is to provide means and processes formaking hats, of the type commercially known as,

beavers, in which the exposed hat brim is finished with a furred or fuzzy napped surface as well as the main flat surfaces and without doubling, binding, welting or cutting. y l i Another important object is in the provision of means and processes whereby the manufacture of hats of the type'mentioned is very considerably expedited overthose in common use and the product greatly perfected. A further purpose is not only to materially shorten the time of making the hat,

L. KAUFMAN, a

but also to obviate the necessity for much of the manual laboig these several objects tendmg to reduce" costs and produce superior results.

These and other analogous objects,which will later become apparent, areattained by the novel construction, combination and arrangement of parts and employment of processes, hereinafter described and shown v in the annexed drawings, forminga material part of this disclosure, and 1n'wh1ch:

F igure 1 1s a partial frontelevatlonal View of a conventional type of hat press, in an open or in receptive position, showing the application of the invention. a

Fig. 2 is a similar view of the same, the parts being in closed or operating position. Fig. 3 is a central transverse' sectional steam chests, showing one of the dies orforming molds in position. f I p t Fig. his a perspective view of the die used during the first operation and its com- Fig. 5 is a similar View of the die and ring used in the second operation. I

Fig. 6 is a fragmentary sectional View of the same showing the parts in operating position.

edge of the being costly,

. from any convenient source AND APPARATUS FOR MAKING NATURAL-EDGE BEAVER HATS. v

Specification of Letters Patent. Pate t d ikugx 30 19 Application filed May 31, i v

Serial No. 474,037.

Fig. a plan view ofan alternative form of ring used with the die shown in F 1g; 9. v i

Fig. I 8 is a central transverse sectional view of the same. r I i Fig. 9'is a perspective View of the brim finishing die and itsclamp ring. similar to that shown in Fig. 5 v

Fig. 10 is a transverse sectional view of the same, showing the parts in operating posi'- appearance in their natural unfinished blanks, due to the process of making, but these edges, in thelcommon procedure of hat making are trimmed to the, size and shape required, thus rendering it necessary to resort to welting or binding the edge, in order to produce therequisite finish, the'process both in material and. time, and further, the welting is liableto separate thus ruining the hat."

he process employed, as hereinafter described, avoids'such methods, retaining the natural furred edge, which may be termed a natural edge, in order to distinguish from those formed by welting, material, and of the blank.

Referring to the drawings, the numeral 15 designates the opposed uprights of the hat press, the same being rigidly connected by tie rods and braces (not shown) and having between them a' table or saddle 16 on which,

rests a steam chest or hollow *hamber 17.

forated steam coil 18 srujplied by the pipe 19 and with a proper means of control.

concavo-con'vex shield 20, supported by legs 21, is disposed over the coil. thesame serving to break the jetsof from the perforations andcause them tobe disseminated within the chamber, condensa tion being conductedaway by the pipe 22. Above the steam coil is an air pipe 23 an directly from' the, without subsequent trimming provided but differing inshape- I steam issuing i ranged in a circle interjaccnt the wall of the chamber, the same being perforated and supplied by a pipe 24L connected with a source of com )resed air, controlled by the valve 25. l

The top of the chamber 17 is open except for an inner annular flange 1'7 disposed slightly below its upper edge and acts as a seat for the dies as further on described.

Passing through the unrights 15 are round vertical bars 28, connected at their lower ends by a yoke 29, this yoke being operated by mechanism of any preferred type as for instance a foot lever (not shown). I i

The upper screw threaded ends of the bars carry a beam 30, adjusted by the nuts 31 relative to the table 16 and obviously is moved in unisonwith the yoke 29. I

A crown block 33 is supported on the lower end of a plunger 3 L passing through the center of the beam and operated by the lever 35 as is common. g

A plurality of rods 36 are 7 adjustably held in the beam 30 by nuts 37 and are engaged at their lower ends. in a formingring circumjacent the crown block 83 which, as has been shown, is movable therethroughby action of the lever 35.

As shown in Figs. 3 and 4 the die 40, used in thefirst operation, is substantially circular in contour and fitted to rest on the flange seat 17 closely within the extending wall of the steam chamber, the die having recesses 41 formed in its edges at the sidesand front engaging locating projections fixed in the chamber.

In profile the slope or angle of inclination of the upper face of the, die is uniform," although the finished hat may vary at differ-I ent parts, the sides and. alike. 7 v V i A plurality of perforations 74:2 are formed through the wall of the die in order to permit the distributed steam or cold air to reach the surface of the material undergoing treatment, the heat and moisture of the steam tending to soften and render the material ends rarely being pliable, while the cold air acts to stiffen the same, retaining it in the die. 1

The clamp ring 15, carried at the lower ends of the rods 36 may be round, or oval as shown in Fig. 4, its lower face being shaped to suit the die and on its upper side the form imparted by are raised lugs 41-6 into which the rods are screw threaded, its outer as shown. I

The firstroperation is to place the hat blank on the die, bring the clamp ring down upon it sufficiently to hold it smoothly and then steam is entered until the blank is sufficiently softened to draw the blank, by operating through the ring, so that the edge of the fabric is flush with the beveled outer edges of the ring around its entire periph edge being beveled ery, the surplus blank being disposed in the opening at the center of the die as indicated in Fig. Thereupon the clamp ring is compressing the material upon the face of the die, steam'is entered-until the blank is sulliciently softened, the block element 33 plunged down through the ring and opening in the die, producing its shape in the loose 'material and forming the crown of the hat.

When this has been accomplished the steam is turned off and the cold air admitted to the chamber, cooling the blank and at a proper time the block is raised, then the clamp ring and the hat form removed from the die, the edges of the brim being of proper shape and ming.

After therequired number of blanks have been produced, the die 40 is removed from its bed in the steam chamber 17 and the die 50, shown inFig. 5, is substituted.

This 'die has similar locating means, is inclined as at 51 along its marginv and con-.

tains an annular depression 52 fitted to neatly receive the brim of the hat, its curved portion 53 having perforations 54 for the same purpose I as previously indicated, the wall 58 being curved and shaped to produce a roll or like effect as shown.

The ring 55 is substituted for thatpreviously used and is shaped and fitted to conform to the recess in the die; it is also provided with a beveled outer edge 56 which fits theeorresponding inclined edge. 52 of the recess, thus holding the parts in accurate register while imparting the finishedform to thehat.

Figs. 7 and 8 show alternativeforms of the clamp ring whereby different shapes are produced, the ring 60 being circular and therefore having a curved contact surface 61 to fit the die 40, while the ring 15, as noted, is oval.

The die (35 and ring 70, shown in Figs. '9 and 10 are for finishing purposes similar to those shown in Figs. 5 and 6 except in shape. i I

V In this modification the die is beveled upwardly to the central recess 66, which is inclined sharply downward and provided with perforations 67. for admitting heat or'cold to the brim, which, as shown is turned upwardly and clamped by the ring which enters therewithin, holding the edge of the hat brim securely after final adjustment, it beingunderstood that the clamp ring is carried and actuated in the manner before described and that the die is fixed upon the chamber 17 in like manner as the other dies.

As changes of construction could be made within the scope of the invention, it is intended that all matter contained in the foregoing description or shown in the accommaterial at the center of the appearance without trimfirmly seated,

panying Having thus described my invention, what I claim as. new and, desire to secure .by Letters Patent, is I 1. A device for forming.hatscomprising, in combination with a press, a chamber carried therein, means for heating and cooling said chamber, a perforate forming die on said chambershaped to the peripheral and surface contour desired for the finished hat brim, means for locating said die, and means for adjustably clamping the exterior margin of hat brims on said die. a

2. A device for forming hats comprising, in combination with a press,,an impervious chamber in said press having an open top, means for heating, cooling, moistening and draining said chamber, a perforate die interchangeably engaged at the top of the chamber, said die being shaped to the peripheral and surface contour ofthe brim, and a clamp ring complementary to said die operatively engaged with said press.

3. A device for forming hats, comprising, in combination with a press, a walled chamber having an open top, a perforated steam coil in said chamber, ,a guard thereover adapted to disseminate steam, a cold air pipe in said chamber, a perforate forming die disposed over the chamber, a clamp ring suited to said die adapted to clamp material therebetween over the perforation in the die, the outer edge of said ring being the exact size and shapeof the periphery intended for the finished hat brim, and means combined with said press for actuating said ring to give it an initial light, and final firm pressure on said die.

4. A device for forming hats comprising, in combination with a press, an impervious chamber in. said press having an open top, a perforate die interchangeably engaging said chamber, means for diffusing steam in the chamber, a crown block operable through said die by said press, a ring operated by the press adapted to clamp material on the face of said die first lightly and then rigidly, the outer edge of said ring being the exact size and shape intended for the edge of the finished hat brim, and means for cooling the interior of said chamber.

5. A device for forming in combination with a press, an impervious chamber in the press, said chamber having an annular seat surrounding its open top, interchangeable dies fitting said seat, said. dies being perforate and containing recesses fitting the brims of the hats and central openings for their crowns, steam diffusing means in said chamber, cooling means for the chamber, plunger carried blocks for the crowns of the hats operated by the press, and interchangeable complementary to said dies operatively ening hats comprising,

brim forming rings.

comprises clamping the. brim between topposed' formed surfaces, applying steamgto the lower surface,adjusting the edge; of the brim to coincide with the outeredgeof the upper surface, plunging the crown, and coolthe hat blank thus formed.

7. The process of forming a hat which comprises disposing theblank upon a form having an opening, applying a clamp over the blank adjacent the edges of its brim, steaming the blank upon the form, drawing the blank toward the center until the edge of the brim coincides with the outer edge of the clamp, plunging the crown of the blank into the crown opening of the form, turning off the steam, and introducing cold compressed air to the blank. 8. The process of making hats which comprises taking a blank having a peripheral contour corresponding to that of the finished brim but having an extending circumferential margin, clamping the brim loosely between rigid formed surfaces, heating the blank to acquire pliability, drawing the blank toward the center until its circumferential edge is in register with the outer edge of said upper surface, increasing the pressure between said surfaces, forming the crown of the hat, and stiffening the blank by the application of cold.

9. The process of finishing a hat which comprises disposing a formed blank within the confines of a depression in a metal die,

applying a brim ring shaped complementary to the outer boundary of said depres sion, admitting steam to the blank, pressing the brim ring firmly into position, inserting a crown block into the blank, cutting ofl the steam, and introducing a blast of cold air in place thereof.

10. The process of hat finishing which com arises the introduction of a partially formed hat blank into a die having the shape of the finished hat brim formed in its surface, gradually applying a brim ring shaped as a counter part of the die, softening the blankby admitting hot vapor to the blank, forcing the brim ring toward the die to compress the blank therebetween, plunging the hat crown, permitting the blank to become set, and stiffening the blank by the application of cold air the die.

lL'The process of forming a hat which comprises disposing the raw blank upon a metal form, applying a clamp ring over the blank adjacent the edges of its brim, admitting steam to the blank, drawing the blank toward the center until the edge of the brim prior to removal from coincides with the outer edge 01 the clamp ring, plunging the crown of the blank, t-urning off the steam, and introducing eold compressed air to the blank, reblooking the pantially formed blank into a die having the shape of the finished hat 'bi'ini formed in its surface, gradually applying a brim ring shaped as a counter part of the outer margin of the formed surface, softening the 10 blank by hot vapor, forcing the brim ring towai'd' the die to compress the blank 'thei'ebetween, plungingthe hat crown, permitting Signed at New York, in the county of New York and State of New York, this 16' day Of May, A. D. 1921.

JOHN L. KA Fiv AN. 

